🇯🇵 Japan With a Toddler — Part 1: From Osaka to Tokyo, In Reverse

When we first told people we were traveling to Japan with a toddler, the responses were pretty evenly split: “That’s amazing!” and “Are you sure?”

Spoiler: we’re so glad we did it. What surprised us most wasn’t just how family-friendly Japan is—but how thoughtful, clean, and efficient every little detail felt. We traveled in reverse (Osaka ➡ Kyoto ➡ Tokyo), skipped the stress of trying to do it all, and focused on slowing down, creating space for play, and making the most of toddler-friendly amenities.

Here’s everything we wish we knew beforehand—where we stayed, what our toddler actually enjoyed, how we got around, and why traveling backwards worked better for our family.

🏨 Where We Stayed (Family-Approved + Stylish)

✨ Osaka: The Royal Park Hotel Iconic Osaka Midosuji

This hotel was our introduction to Japan and it set the bar high. It’s located in the heart of Osaka, within walking distance to shops, restaurants, and public transportation. The rooms were bright and modern with huge windows—our toddler could’ve stared at the city for hours.

Why it worked for families:

  • Spacious layout: Plenty of room to move around, even with a stroller parked inside.

  • Easy breakfast options in the hotel and nearby cafĂ©s.

  • Quiet nights: Despite being centrally located, it was peaceful and perfect for early bedtimes.

We started our days slowly—breakfast at the café downstairs, a morning stroll to a playground or indoor department store play area (yes, those exist!), and then a midday break back at the hotel. It was a gentle start to our trip, and perfect for adjusting to the time change.

🏯 Kyoto: Mitsui Garden Hotel Kyoto Shinmachi Bettei

Kyoto was where the magic of Japan really set in. This hotel struck a beautiful balance between traditional Japanese design and modern family convenience.

Why families will love it:

  • Tatami mat floors meant our toddler had a safe space to play without bumping into furniture or walls.

  • Peaceful location, walkable to several temples, cute cafĂ©s, and family-friendly restaurants.

  • Onsen-style baths gave us a mini spa moment after the chaos of bedtime.

We planned one main outing per day—a temple visit, a tea house, or a walk through Gion—then spent the rest of the time slowing down. We even had quiet picnic dinners from convenience stores in our room some nights (more on that in Part 2).

đź—Ľ Tokyo: Hamacho Hotel

Tucked into a serene neighborhood near Sumida River, Hamacho Hotel was the perfect Tokyo base for families who want to explore, but also decompress. Tokyo can feel fast-paced and crowded, but this location let us dip into the city and pull right back out when needed.

Family highlights:

  • Bakery on site with amazing morning pastries.

  • Large windows + quiet rooms = ideal for nap-friendly downtime.

  • Easy train access to everywhere: Ueno Zoo, Asakusa, Shibuya, and more.

We really appreciated being able to walk along the river in the early mornings while the city was still sleepy—our toddler could burn energy before we hit any attractions.

🚆 Getting Around: Public Transit with a Toddler

Transportation in Japan is nothing short of miraculous when you compare it to most cities around the world. It’s clean, fast, stroller-friendly, and surprisingly affordable when you plan ahead.

What worked best for us:

  • Japan Rail Pass: We activated this for our intercity travel (Osaka ➡ Kyoto ➡ Tokyo). The Shinkansen (bullet train) became our daughter’s nap time dream—smooth, quiet, and with gorgeous countryside views for us.

  • IC Cards (Suica/Pasmo): We used these daily in cities for buses, subways, and even buying snacks at vending machines and convenience stores.

  • Priority seating: People often gave up seats for us without asking. We always aimed for the back row of the train cars where there was extra stroller space and easier bathroom access.

  • Elevators everywhere: Seriously, even in the most crowded stations, there was almost always a well-marked elevator.

We avoided rush hours and planned travel for mid-morning, which helped everything feel relaxed. And let’s be honest—sometimes the train was the destination. Our toddler loved the doors, the jingles, and watching other kids come and go.

🎠 Toddler-Friendly Activities (Yes, They Exist—and They’re Amazing)

Before going, we weren’t sure how much of Japan’s magic would be toddler-compatible. Turns out: a lot of it is—you just need to slow it down.

In Osaka:

  • Explored rooftop playgrounds at department stores like Daimaru and Takashimaya.

  • Wandered around Shinsaibashi—great people-watching, fun escalators, and lots of snack stops.

  • Found a quiet riverside park for picnic lunches.

In Kyoto:

  • Visited the Bamboo Forest early in the morning before the crowds hit.

  • Walked the Philosopher’s Path with coffee in hand and toddler in a sling.

  • Spent time at temples with koi ponds—a hit for toddlers and adults alike.

In Tokyo:

  • Ueno Zoo was a full half-day adventure with plenty of space to run and play.

  • Found indoor play areas on top floors of malls like Isetan—clean, colorful, and great for rainy days.

  • Spotted cherry blossoms at local parks and let our toddler wander through petals like it was a movie scene.

We chose one big thing per day and stayed flexible. If we only made it to the zoo and back? That was a win. Japan taught us to let go of “doing it all” and just enjoy the moment we were in.

🇯🇵 Japan With a Toddler — Part 2: Hiroshima, Luggage Transfers & Feeding a Tiny Human on the Go

Underrated Small Towns Near Major Cities Worth Visiting